The Charm of Athens
Temple of Zeus, Athens Greece September 2005
I often hear of some Greeks advising potential tourists to the patrida to skip Athens in their itinerary. If the Greek islands are your destination with limited time, I can see that. BUT… here’s why Athens works, either to visit or to live in, despite some of the harshness found in any city, in its own form.
- The Acropolis. Could very well be personal taste, years of Euro-centric schooling- Nah! Shut up. The sight of the Acropolis at night, draped in moonlight with an eerie glow… is breathtaking and surreal. How many times have I shed a tear just catching sight of it, wherever I may be in the Athenian night? Visit during the hours of 12pm-3pm during the months of July and August and you’ll swear you’ve just hiked into the atmosphere of the sun.
- Coffee culture. Try a damn frappé, for goodness sake, and people watch behind black sunglasses. If you’re a man, have black hair with Adonis wavy locks– you’ll blend right in. If you’re uppity, go to Kolonaki for your cafe. But you will have a nice frappé atmosphere almost anywhere. If coffee is not your thing, try a frosty beer with some feta-cheese flavored Lay’s chips.
- The beach. It’s just a drive away. You don’t have to island hop or go broke. City dweller by week day, beach god or goddess during the weekend.
- Island excursions. Just a short plane ride away (or more true to the Greek experience) a ferry away. See above!
- Meet Greeks from all over Greece. It’s a city. You’ll find Greeks from all regions.
- Find scattered ruins of temples and old civilizations in the middle of a street (sectioned off of course). It’s part of the natural landscape. Find scattered ruins off the beaten path (like I did during a hike (though in Milos), near the site where they unearthed the Venus de Milo. Pick it up, get chills, almost shit your pants, then drop it where you found it in and run your ass off before the Greek government agents think you’re stealing. No-one tell me it was a fake. If you went to the places where C-mixto takes me off the beaten path, you’d probably find Atlantis.
- Abundance of farmers’ markets. Not just in neighborhoods. On different streets!
- Cool flea market on Sundays under the Acropolis. Find some old relics, ignoring the tail end of it with crap from China. Wish list: someone get me a coin of the Phoenix currency of the new nation of Greece.
- Because it’s Athens. It’s got some haunting history and it’s cool.
That’s all I’m coming up with now, thought there’s tons more. Anyone care to add to the list?
Inspired by a great meal at Snack on Thompson Street, NYC and a highly caffeinated frappé. Try one yet?
5 Comments
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Oh my goodness, I agree with everything. Anyone who cannot appreciate some part of this city then I don’t want to know you. Sorry.
In addition to all of these wonderful pieces of Athens, did you enjoy Plaka or am I alone here?
I want to be back there.
I love Plaka. I know people think of it as a tourist trap but I find it charming. I love staying in Plaka, though Gazi is the cool place to be if you’re a hip and like urban grunge mixed with fine dining. I still wear my Plaka sandals- well over what? 10 years now? Frappe in Plaka! (Frappe anywhere…)
If you cannot get to Athens or the Greek Islands you can visit Uncle Nick’s Restaurant (two locations)one on 8th Avenue and 50th Street (Original) and a new location on 8th Avenue and 28th Street. Try the “avokelemon” (egg&lemon) soup, an Ouzo (never on the rocks), Greek Salad and Szaganki (Fried Cheese). Enjoy all this while listening to a CD of the legendary singer, Kazangetheis bemoaning his lost love. YASOU!
The Acropolis at night was truly breathtaking and gave me chills. I enjoyed the Plaka and walking around different shops before departing to my destination of Crete. The capital of Crete, Hhania is a lovely fishing community with rows of restaurants and beautiful architecture. I hope to get back to Athens/Greece itself real soon!
Yia sou, Divafish!